Deep in the folds of the mighty Himalayas,
a little distance away from the KuluValley
and the mighty BeasRiver,
exists a small village called Malana. The village consists of about two hundred
stone houses, couple of temples, a Council House, Lower
Court and a High Court. The people of this village
call it the Republic of Malana.
I assure you that I have not lost my marbles. Nor this is an imaginary State
made up by me a la Sarkhan created by Messers.William Lederer and Eugene
Burdick (their book Ugly American is more famous)
I came across this place during
my trek in the Kulu and ParbatiValleys
in the Himalayas. The trek organized by YHAI has laid
out camps for the trekkers to spend the night and one such camp was located
near this place. This republic is said to be the oldest democracy in the
world. It has its own laws and a caste system rigorously enforced. Entry of
outsiders is controlled and their activity inside the village is strictly
monitored. The Malanese consider all others as inferior and so outsiders are
not even allowed to touch the walls of the temple, let alone enter it. Even the
walls of the Courts are considered sacred. Penalty for transgression would
entail a fine and or imprisonment. So we were asked to assemble and walk past
the village in single file keeping well away from the walls of the buildings
under the watchful eyes of the locals. Photography is frowned upon and the only
photo I have was clicked clandestinely. It is one of the temples in the
village. Dont miss the solar panel installed in the lamp post! Years back,
this village had solar power!
A story claims that
the citizens of this republic are descendants of Greek soldiers who deserted
Alexanders army during his aborted attempt to invade India.
This seems slightly far-fetched as this place is too far East from where
Alexander tried to enter India.
The other thing is, the language spoken by Malanese called Kanashi, does not
belong to the Indo-European tree. The theory that they are a tribe of Rajputs
seems more plausible. Whatever the origin, they are an extremely closed
community. They do not socialize outside the village and inter-community
marriage is taboo and is very strictly enforced.. We did not see a single woman
during our walk past the village. They are not allowed to see strangers. There
are stories doing the circuit that the villagers grow and trade in charas and
ganja and that they maintain the isolation to shroud their illegal
activities.
Their God called Jamlu Devta is
actually Sage Jamdagani, father of Parasurama. There is also a separate temple
for Renuka, wife of Jamdagani. Their village is very strategically located on a
plateau, with only one approach, that too after crossing the raging Malana
Nulla. Then a very steep climb had to be negotiated before one can actually see the village. But the whole place is very picturesque with the nulla in the
background, snow-capped peaks all around, water-falls trickilng down - it is really picture postcard scenery.
The air of mystery surrounding
the village is tremendous and beyond description. But what I find really
incredible is that Malana with own civil and criminal laws still exists! But
then in India
anything is possible. If a religious community can have their own civil laws
though they live amidst other communities following a common law, why not
Malana??
Lesotho
is a country within a country. It is completely surrounded by South Africa but
then it is a sovereign nation but a republic within a republic?!!
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